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By Anthony Faiola Washington Post Foreign Service
NAZCA, Peru -- Emerging
like a mirage in Peru's coastal desert, the
massive figures of a hummingbird, monkey,
lizard and other shapes carved into a rocky
plain have baffled archaeologists for
decades, surrendering only the faintest
clues about their ancient purpose.
But the enigmatic Nazca
Lines now appear to be sending one signal
loud and clear: SOS!
(Save Our Symbols!)
After years in which the
Lines suffered gradual destruction, a new
tide of tomb raiders seeking pre-Inca
artifacts is scarring the terrain with
hundreds of burrows amid the figures here,
and near even older shapes around the
neighboring town of
Palpa. A boom in copper
and gold mining -- including a mine built
four years ago a few feet from a
2,000-year-old, two-mile-long trapezoid --
is defacing parts of the Lines with tracks
from truck traffic.
Over the past decade,
advertisers and political campaigns have
carved huge messages in the rock and sand
between the ancient designs in this region
250 miles south of Lima. In 1998, floods and
mudslides from the El Nino weather pattern
seriously eroded several figures. And as
electricity reaches the growing local
population, utility companies are running
power cables over and around the site.
Earlier this month, contractors were digging
deep holes for a power post six feet from a
spiral in high relief.
The damage to the Lines
underscores Peru's desperate struggle to
preserve its national patrimony.
Archaeologists say they are watching
helplessly as the quest for scholarship and
conservation in a country viewed as the
cradle of New World civilization is losing
out to commercial interests, bleak poverty
and the growing popularity of heritage sites
as tourist attractions.
"Our cultural heritage is
in jeopardy, and it is not just Peru that
stands to suffer," said Alberto Urbano,
regional director of Peru's National
Institute of Culture. "If we do not act quickly to preserve these sites,
the world may lose out on an opportunity to
understand some of the earliest known and
greatest secrets of ancient human civilization."
The difficulties extend
beyond Nazca. Last September, a beer company
with a permit to film a commercial in Machu
Picchu, the 500-year-old "lost city of the
Incas" nestled in the Andes, accidentally dropped a
camera crane and damaged the site's stone
solar calendar. Two weeks ago, a skull
estimated to be 4,500 years old was stolen from Peruvian archaeologists
excavating ruins near Caral, a town 120
miles north of Lima. A study published last
month dated the ruins to 2,600 B.C., making
it the oldest known city in the Americas,
thriving around the same time the pyramids
were built in Egypt.
Archaeologists say Peru
lacks funds not only to protect important
sites, but also to research them -- a
problem shared by much of the developing
world, including archaeologically rich Latin America.
"There has been an
enormous lack of political will in Peru to
do anything but exploit sites for their
tourist value," said Ruth Shady, an
archaeologist at the San Marcos National
University in Lima. Shady's research
uncovered the importance of the
Caral ruins,
which revised the date for the birth of high
civilization in the New World 1,500 years
earlier than previously believed. "And even
though international scientists have talked
about the importance of early cultures and
important sites in Peru, they have done
little to help us secure funds from abroad
to protect and study them."
The damage to some sites is
cumulative, coming from years of neglect.
The Pan American Highway, for instance, was
constructed through the tail-of-the-lizard
figure back in the 1940s. But experts here
say that pressure over the past decade has
been disturbingly intense.
The
Nazca Lines, first
seen in their entirety during overflights in
the 1930s, are a wonder of early
architecture and structural design. They
cover nearly 400 square miles of desert with
startlingly precise geometrical figures,
including miles-long animal shapes and
trapezoids.
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The most famous of the
researchers to examine them, the late German
mathematician
Maria Reiche, theorized that
they represented a sort of astronomical
chart. Others have postulated that the Lines were
an elaborate indicator of an ancient
underground water source.
In Nazca, a
poverty-stricken city of 30,000, tourism has
tripled to 70,000 foreign visitors a year
since 1995. Today, it is not uncommon for
the small tourist planes flying over the region to spot wayward
foreigners trudging over the Lines, which
can be fully seen only from the air.
The area, home to a series
of major cultures over almost two dozen
centuries, is policed by two officials from
the National Institute of Culture who share
a bicycle to patrol the vast zone, located in one of the
driest deserts on Earth. "When I look at the
problems we face and the lack of funds to
combat them, I feel like a grain of sand on a beach being covered by a wave,"
Urbano said.
One of the most troubling
problems has been the surge in tomb-looting.
Typically scavenging the sands at night with
steel poles used to detect hidden tombs or
buried ceramics, the raiders have become bold. This
month, a pair of thieves could be spotted
from the air in broad daylight tearing open
a tomb near the citadel of
Cahuachi, a structure that dates to the
2,000-year-old Nazca culture that is
believed to have constructed the Lines.
A recession and record
unemployment have led some residents to
become professional relic scavengers. Only a
portion of the wealth hidden in tombs across
the coastal desert has been discovered. One
piece of ancient pottery can fetch $50, more
than a month's salary for day laborers, from
black-market dealers who then sell the pieces for several times that price
to Peruvian or foreign collectors.
Prized textiles and gold
ornaments sell for much more, often fetching
tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands
of dollars on the international market.
While it is against Peruvian law to remove
pre-Columbian
artifacts from the country, "artifact
mafias" run by American, Italian and Swiss
dealers have become expert in spiriting out objects, officials say.
The destruction of the
Nazca Lines has started to worry tourism
companies that make a living off them. Next
month, Aero Condor, the Lima-based airline
offering the largest number of tourist flights over
the Lines, will launch the Nazca Patrol, a
partnership with local police to track and
catch tomb raiders with the aid of a newly
purchased ultralight aircraft.
"That's what we have to
stop!" shouted Eduardo Herran, a pilot and
the coordinator of the Nazca Patrol, as he
pointed at two men with shovels jumping for
cover into a dug-up tomb during a low overflight
of the Lines. "They have become so audacious
that sometimes they don't even try to hide."
Peruvian archaeologists
say that as frustrating as the looting is,
an even greater challenge is the lack of
funding that prevents them from performing
the work that would unlock answers to vital questions
about the earliest periods of human
civilization in the New World.
On a windy afternoon
recently at the Caral ruins, two Peruvian
archaeologists earning $2.40 a day toiled
under the desert sun. Although
archaeologists have worked here continually for the past four years,
less than 5 percent of the site has been
explored. Without equipment, workers,
chemists or engineers, most of the massive
pyramids, temples and houses remain covered
with rock and sand.
"And that's probably the
way they will stay for a long time," said
Rudy Peralta, one of the two archaeologists
digging here with the help of a day laborer.
"Science is working against the odds in Peru."
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LIMA, Peru (AP) -- Mudslides
have damaged parts of the famed
Nazca Lines,
mysterious symbols and animal figures that
Indians etched into the ground in Peru's
southern desert centuries ago, experts said
Sunday.
The mudslides, which
followed hard rains caused by the weather
phenomenon El Niρo, damaged several lines
and one of the Nazca triangles and could
threaten more serious damage, said Nazca
historian Jose Lancho.
The avalanches in recent
days have spared the well-known figures of a
monkey,
lizard, a
spider and other
animals
made by the
Nazca Indians between 300-600 A.D., said
Nazca historian Jose Lancho. The figures are
among Peru's main tourist attractions.
But Lancho said that these
and hundreds of other lines and figures
could be damaged if El Niρo's rains
continue. |
``El Niρo has hit southern
Peru harder than expected, and we are
unprepared for it,'' he said. ``If the rain
continues, the Nazca Lines could be
permanently damaged by mudslides and
flooding.''
The lines are shrouded in
mystery and there are several theories about
their purpose. One holds that the lines are
a giant
astronomical map that told ancient desert
dwellers when to plant and irrigate their
crops.
El Niρo has brought heavy
rains to Peru's bone-dry southern desert,
causing massive flooding and mudslides. The
nearby city of Ica was devastated last week
by a flood that swamped 90 percent of the
city, washing away adobe houses and leaving
thousands homeless.
© Copyright 1998 The
Associated Press |